Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine covering many topics including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a weekly newspaper in 1892 in the United States, before becoming a monthly publication years later.
The British Vogue was the first international edition launched in 1916, while the Italian version Vogue Italia has been called the top fashion magazine in the world. As of today, there are 23 international editions.
In 1892, Arthur Baldwin Turnure, an American businessman, founded Vogue as a weekly newspaper in the United States. From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York upper class. The magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership.
This is part 12 of a 12-part series on Vogue magazine.
For earlier magazines see parts 1 - 11 also.
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Brian Stonehouse M.B.E. (1918-1998). While at Ipswich School of Art in the mid-Thirties, Stonehouse had become interested in fashion illustration and portraiture, however had little time to pursue a career before War broke out. As a politically aware young art student in the late Thirties and fluent French speaker it was soon realised that he was wasted in the Royal Artillery and early in 1942 he was recommended for the Special Operations Executive. Disguised as a French art student, a B2 suitcase radio concealed within his artist’s box, he survived four hair-raising months transmitting from inside occupied France before being arrested by the Vichy French and the Gestapo. Portraits of the German guards and their wives that he was ordered to draw while in Mauthausen had, bizarrely, helped to save his life.
Note: At around this time Vogue started using photography for covers as the norm, rather than illustrations.
The remainder of the posts shown here are mainly from editorial pages, up to 1962, and then a few from the the 1980's.
Virginia Romo is a German illustrator in Stuttgart, Germany.
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Kornelis Debosz is a Polish illustrator, mainly for fashion.
For earlier magazines see parts 1 - 11 also.
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| 1941 October 1 Autumn Shoes, 80 Feet of Fashion, 24 Suits Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1942 September 1 Illustration by René R. Bouché René Robert Bouché (1905- 1963) was born in Prague. By the age of 15 in Munich, he had already become an illustrator and met Richard Lindner, who would remain his lifelong friend. In 1926 at age 21, he studied art history under Heinrich Wölfflin at Munich University while earning a living as an illustrator of children’s books. The Following year he moved to Berlin. He became a professional illustrator and met his first wife, Margo (Pony) Schoenlank. Shortly after Hitler came to power, René and Pony left for Paris where he studied with Amedée Ozenfant at the Académie Ozenfant. Between 1934 and 1938 René Bouché contributed drawings to the magazine Plaisir de France and did advertising for Nestlé. In 1938, he began his work for Vogue, to which he remained committed throughout his life. |
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| 1942 November 15 Cover by Rene Bouet-Willaumez |
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| 1943 December 15 Holidays and Winter Travel Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1944 January 15 Spring Hats Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1944 April 1 Mid-Spring Fashions, Summer Décor for Your House Cover by Salvador Dali |
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| 1945 April 1 Cover by Eugène Berman |
Eugène Berman (1899 Saint Petersburg, Russia - 1972, Rome) and his brother Leonid Bermanwere Russian Neo-romantic painters and theatre and opera designers.
Born in Russia, the Bermans fled the Russian revolution in 1918. In Paris the Bermans exhibited at the Galerie Pierre where their work earned them the name "Neo-Romantics” for its melancholy and introspective qualities, having taken inspiration from the Blue Period paintings of Pablo Picasso.
Eugène's work was characterised by lonely landscapes featuring sculptural and architectural elements, often ruins, rendered in a neo-classical manner, whereas that of Leonid depicted beaches with fisherman's boats and nets in many parts of the world. In 1935 Eugène left for New York where he exhibited frequently at the Julien Levy Gallery (as did Leonid after the war). Later, in the 1940s, Eugène settled in Los Angeles and married the actress Ona Munson, while Leonid remained in New York and married the harpsichordist Sylvia Marlowe. In 1950 he exhibited at Instituto de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires. In 1950, Berman was elected into the National Academy of Design as an Associate member, and became a full member in 1954.
In America, Eugène became well known as a stage designer for ballet and opera. Following the suicide of his wife in 1955, he moved to Rome where Princess Doria-Pamphilj provided an apartment and studio for him in a wing of her palazzo on the via del Corso. He continued to paint there until his death in 1972. Leonid died in New York in 1976.
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| 1945 September 1 New York Collections Autumn 1945 Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1945 December 15 Christmas Ideas, Débutante Season Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1946 April 15 Paris Collections, Decorating with Colour Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1947 January 1 Travel Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1947 March 1 Spring Collections, Ready-to-wear Cover by René R. Bouché |
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| 1947 April 1 Paris Spring Collections Preview: American Summer Fashions Cover by Dagmar Freuchen-Gale |
Dagmar Freuchen-Gale(1907 – 1991) was a Danish illustrator, author and editor. Well known as a fashion illustrator, working for magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. In April 1947, Freuchen-Gale illustrated the cover of Vogue(above) that presented new couture house Christian Dior. At the end of the 1940s Freuchen-Gale began to teach fashion illustration at the Art Students League, and continuing there for 20 years.
She edited several of her second husband's, explorer and author Peter Freuchen, books. In 1968, she wrote Cookbook of the Seven Seas, a title inspired by her husband Freuchen's book, “Book of the Seven Seas.”
Freuchen-Gale married three times. Her first husband, a Danish man named Muller, was killed during World War II while serving with the American army in the Pacific.
She met her second husband, Peter Freuchen, in New York at the home of some Danish friends. They married in 1945. Freuchen was a well-known Danish author and Arctic explorer. Beginning in 1945, they lived in New York City and maintained a second home in Noank, Connecticut, overlooking Long Island Sound. They appearedtogether in a well-known photo by Irving Penn showing Freuchen with a beard in a massive fur coat.
Freuchen often travelled for his work during their marriage but is reported to have written home every day and sent a copy of each letter to the Danish Royal Library, to be opened 50 years after his death, in 2007. Freuchen-Gale joined her husband only once in his travels, on an expedition to Iceland, during which she served native meals including pickled whale blubber and seaweed. During their marriage, she became an expert on various cuisines from around the world. After her husband's death, Freuchen-Gale maintained the Noank home until 1963.
Freuchen-Gale's third marriage was to Henry Gale (d. 1969), an attorney from New York in 1967.She returned to live in Denmark in the early 1970s.
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| 1947 May 15 Summer Travel Cover by Eugène Berman |
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| 1947 June 15 Week-end Plans Cover by René R. Bouché |
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| 1947 July 15 Summer Reader, Autumn Fashion Forecast Cover by Rene Bouet-Willaumez |
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| 1947 October 1 Made-to-Order Collections, American, French Cover by Rene R. Bouché |
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| 1948 April 15 A woman wearing a Mark Mooring jacket Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1948 October 1 Made-to-Order Fashions, Ready-to-Wear Fashions Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1948 December 1 Christmas Issue, Resort Fashions Cover by Eugene Berman |
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| 1948 December 1 Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1949 July 1 Summer Reader Issue Cover by Marcel Vertès |
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| 1949 September 15 Accessories, Shoes, Vogue Designs for Dressmaking Autumn Fashions, New York, Paris Cover by René Gruau |
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| 1952 August 15 A black and red Priming Coat Illustration by Brian Stonehouse |
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| 1952 August 15 Cocktails or at the Theatre Illustration by Brian Stonehouse gouache and fibre-tip pen on grey paper 45.7 x 38.1 cm |
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| 1952 Illustration by René R. Bouché |
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| 1952 The Complete Outfit Illustration by Brian Stonehouse |
Brian Stonehouse M.B.E. (1918-1998). While at Ipswich School of Art in the mid-Thirties, Stonehouse had become interested in fashion illustration and portraiture, however had little time to pursue a career before War broke out. As a politically aware young art student in the late Thirties and fluent French speaker it was soon realised that he was wasted in the Royal Artillery and early in 1942 he was recommended for the Special Operations Executive. Disguised as a French art student, a B2 suitcase radio concealed within his artist’s box, he survived four hair-raising months transmitting from inside occupied France before being arrested by the Vichy French and the Gestapo. Portraits of the German guards and their wives that he was ordered to draw while in Mauthausen had, bizarrely, helped to save his life.
The Imperial War Museum and Dachau Museum hold the drawings he made of Dachau and at the War Crimes Tribunals. It was at the preparation for those Trials that he met Harry Haller, the socialite American Major who was to support his move the USA in 1946 and his new career as an artist and fashion illustrator.
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| 1953 January Illustration by Brian Stonehouse gouache and fibre-tip pen on tan paper 73.7 x 38.1 cm |
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| 1953 November 1 Christmas list, 300 presents Fashions in Lace, Fashions in Silk Cover by René R. Bouché |
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| 1953 November Christmas Presents, People and Cars Cover by Rene R. Bouché |
Note: At around this time Vogue started using photography for covers as the norm, rather than illustrations.
The remainder of the posts shown here are mainly from editorial pages, up to 1962, and then a few from the the 1980's.
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| 1953 Illustration by Virginia Romo |
Virginia Romo is a German illustrator in Stuttgart, Germany.
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| 1954 April 1 Susan Train by René Gruau |
René Gruau (1909 – 2004) was an Italian artist known for his painterly style of fashion illustration. Inspired by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec's Art Nouveau aesthetic, Gruau echoed the expressive line and controlled blocks of colour used by his predecessor.
Born Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli in 1909 in Rimini, Italy, Gruau took his mother’s name when he moved to Paris as a young man. He began his career in print editorials, making his mark in the industry by designing the iconic Miss Dior fashion campaign in 1947. A graphic artist for haute-couture fashion houses, as well as advertisements, Gruau garnered further acclaim for his poster design of Federico Fellini’s cinema classic La Dolce Vita (1959).
René Gruau died in 2004 in Rome at the age of 95, and his home-town, Rimini, retains a collection of his work in its city museum.
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| 1954 May 15 Jean Patchett by René R. Bouché |
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| 1954 August 15 Young Colour Plans - Using a Priming Coat Illustration by Brian Stonehouse gouache, ink and fibre-tip pen on grey paper 58.4 x 32.4 cm |
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| 1954 October 1 A model wearing a Nina Ricci dress with Jean Page fabric Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson |
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| 1954 Black Dress with a White Cape Collar Illustraion by Brian Stonehouse gouache, ink and fibre-tip pen on pink paper 59.7 x 26.7 cm |
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| 1955 March 1 Illustration by Dagmar Freuchen-Gale |
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| c1955 The Green Dress Illustration by Brian Stonehouse |
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| 1957 March 15 Illustration by Dagmar Freuchen |
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| 1957 Advertising illustration for Vogue by Andy Warhol © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York |
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| 1957 Pendleton Sportswear Advertisement Illustration by Ted Rand |
Ted Rand (1916 – 2005) is best known for his work illustrating children's novels in his 60s, 70s, and 80s. He was born in 1916 on Mercer Island, WA. He started drawing early in his youth, travelled the world, and did portraits and advertising illustrations. He was a member of the Naval Air Corps during WW2. He became a graphic artist at Frederick & Nelson, and the Bon Marché, before founding a company called Graphic Studios. Rand also taught at the University of Washington for 20 years.
Rand illustrated 78 children's books. His drawings are on display around the country. He was awarded the Kerlan Award in May 2005 posthumously. Rand died of cancer, before he could accept the award.
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| 1958 March 15 International Good Looks Cover by René R. Bouché |
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| 1958 April 15 Cover by René R. Bouché |
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| 1958 April Illustration by René R. Bouché |
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| c1960 Winter Overcoats Illustration by Brian Stonehouseink and gouache on tan paper |
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| 1961 Illustration by Kornelia Debosz |
Kornelis Debosz is a Polish illustrator, mainly for fashion.
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| 1962 February 1 Dressed for the Polo Ground, Palm Beach Illustration by Brian Stonehouse gouache, chalk and ink on grey paper 55.9 x 43.8 cm |
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| 1962 February 1 Flying in to Palm Beach Illustration by Brian Stonehouse charcoal and fibre-tip pen on grey paper 47.6 x 40.6 cm |
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| 1962 February 1 Night Club Restaurant Illustration by Brian Stonehouse black and brown chalk, ink and gouache 65.4 x 50.8 cm |
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| 1962 February 1 Night Club Restaurant Illustration by Brian Stonehouse black and brown chalk, ink and gouache 65.4 x 45.1 cm |
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| 1983 September Advertisement for Missoni Illustration by Antonio Lopez |
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| 1983 September Advertisement for Ocar de la Renta Illustration by Antonio Lopez |
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| 1984 Illustration by Antonio Lopez pencil and gouache on paper 53.3 x 32.4 cm |