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Vogue Magazine - part 11

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Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine covering many topics including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a weekly newspaper in 1892 in the United States, before becoming a monthly publication years later.
The British Vogue was the first international edition launched in 1916, while the Italian version Vogue Italia has been called the top fashion magazine in the world. As of today, there are 23 international editions.
In 1892, Arthur Baldwin Turnure, an American businessman, founded Vogue as a weekly newspaper in the United States. From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York upper class. The magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership.
 Condé Montrose Nast purchased Vogue in 1909 one year before Turnure's death, and gradually grew the publication. He changed it to a unisex magazine and started Vogue overseas in the 1910s. Under Nast, the magazine soon shifted its focus to women, and in turn the price was soon raised. The magazine’s number of publications and profit increased dramatically under Nast’s management. By 1911, the Vogue brand had garnered a reputation that it continues to maintain, targeting an elite audience and expanding into the coverage of weddings. According to Condé Nast Russia, after the First World War made deliveries in the Old World impossible, printing began in England. The decision to print in England proved to be successful causing Nast to release the first issue of French Vogue in 1920.


This is part 11 of a 12-part series on Vogue magazine.
For earlier magazines see parts 1 - 10 also.



1935 August 1
Mr. Goodman Advises Shoppers
Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1935 October 1
Paris Importations, New York Designs
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1935 October 1
Illustration by Christian Bèrard

1935 October 15
Furs, Jewels, Accessories
Cover by Pierre Roy

Pierre Roy (1880 – 1950) was a French surrealist painter. He was the eldest of four children of the secretary of the management board of the Musée d'Arts de Nantes who all became amateur painters. After gaining his baccalauréat at the local school he joined a firm of architects before enrolling at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Disappointed with the course, he left to work on the designs for the 1900 Paris Exposition.
In 1905, he decided to devote himself to painting, beginning in 1906 at the Salon of the Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts, a painters collective. He exhibited in 1907, 1908, 1913 and 1914 at the Société des Artistes Indépendants. In 1925, he took part in the first exhibition by surrealist painters alongside Giorgio De ChiricoMax Ernst and Pablo Picasso, and in 1926 had his first solo exhibition.In 1933 he was appointed for five years as a naval artist.
An exhibition devoted to his work was held at the Galerie des Beaux-Arts in Paris in 1935, and his work was displayed at the 1937 World's Fair and the Montaigne Gallery in Paris in 1938. He travelled and exhibited in galleries around the world: in New York at the Brummer Gallery in 1930 and 1933, at the Julien Levy Gallery in 1932, at the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 1936, at the Carstairs Gallery in 1949, in London in 1934, at the Wildenstein Gallery and in Hawaii in 1939 at the Honolulu Academy of Arts.
In addition he created stage sets, several covers for Voguemagazine, and advertising posters. His work is classed as surrealism, and is based on assemblages of everyday objects such as shells, vegetables and fruits, woollen reels, ears and seeds, eggs and ribbons arranged to create poetic images.

1936 January 15
Spring Hats, Between-Seasons Fashions
Cover by Pierre Mourgue

1936 January 15 
Cover artwork by Pierre Mourgue

1936 February 1
Illustration by R.S. Grafstrom

1936 February 1
Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez

1936 February 15
New Fashions, Fabrics, Faces
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1936 March 15
Illustration by Marcel Vertes

Marcel Vertès (1895 – 1961) was born in Budapest, Hungary. His first commercially successful works of art were sketches of corpses, criminals and prostitutes he did for a sensationalist magazine in Budapest. He then did illustrations for many of the clandestinely printed publications opposing the Hapsburg monarchy at the end of WWI.
After the war he moved from Hungary to Vienna, Austria and then to Paris, where he was a student at the Academy Julian. Vertes quickly established himself as a regular in the Paris art scene and his work became lighter and more lyrical. In Paris he concentrated on illustration, painting and printmaking, especially lithography. In 1935 he made his first trip to New York to make contacts. Two years later he had his first one-man show in New York.
At the end of WW2 he returned to New York with his wife. He then began to divide his time between New York and Paris. Ten years later, he returned to Paris and spent the remaining years of his life there.
While in the United States he became a consultant to the Producers and Set Designers of the 1952 Award Winning film Moulin Rouge, about the life and times of Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec. He won two Academy Awards for Best Art Direction and Best Costume Design. Vertès is also responsible for the original murals in the Café Carlyle in the Carlyle Hotel in New York City and for those in the Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, also in New York.
Vertes also appeared in the British production credits as Colour Production Designer, and Costume Designer for the film, with Schiaparalli (the same of Paris, and Italy). They both jointly won the British Academy Film award in 1952 for Best Costume Design for Moulin Rouge.
In real life, Marcel Vertès earned his tuition money for his European education by making forgeries of Lautrec's works! Marcel's hand is actually shown in the movie, Moulin Rouge as the actor drawing for the late Toulouse Lautrec, and his images were accordingly used in the film and given appropriate credit in the trailer to the film.


Vertès was made an officer of the Legion of Honour in 1955, when he designed for ballets at the Paris Opera.He designed all the sets for Ringling Bros.-Barnum & Bailey Circus’ entire show in 1956, was an illustration contributor for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and a member of the jury at the Cannes Film Festival in 1961. He died in Paris in 1961, aged 66.

1936 April 1
Illustration by  Rene Bouët-Willaumez

1936 June 1
Beauty and Midseason Openings
Cover by Pierre Roy

1936 June 15
Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez

1936 September 1
Paris Openings
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1936 September 1
Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1936 September 15
Paris Openings II, Autumn Shopping
Cover by Rene Bouet-Willaumez

1936 October 1
Winter Fashion and Brides
Cover by Christian Bèrard

1936 December 1
A portrait of Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt at the opening of the Iridium Room
Illustration by Porter Woodruff

1936 December 1
Christmas Gifts
Cover by Pierre Roy

1936 December 1
Mrs. Jay O'Brian wearing a grey tulle dress and rose corsage
Illustration by Porter Woodruff

1937 January 15
Spring Hats, Between-Seasons Fashions
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1937 January 15
Illustration by R.S. Grafstrom

1937 February 15
New Fashions, Fabrics, Faces
Cover by Raymond de Lavererie

1937 April 15
Trousseaux, Country House Decoration
Cover by Christian Bèrard

1937 May 1
Younger Generation, Limited Incomes
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1937 July 1
Hot Weather Holidays
 Cover by Miguel Covarrubias

Miguel Covarrubias, (1904, Mexico City - 1957, Mexico City) Painter, writer, and anthropologist.
Covarrubias received little formal artistic training. In 1923 he went to New York City on a government scholarship, and his incisive caricatures soon began to appear in magazines such as Vanity Fair and The New Yorker. A collection of his caricatures, “The Prince of Wales and Other Famous Americans,” was published in 1925. His illustrations showing his interest in the study of racial types also appeared in numerous magazines and books. In 1930 and 1933 he and his wife travelled in Asia, and subsequently he wrote Island of Bali (1937). Covarrubias also painted six mural maps illustrating the cultures of the Pacific area for the Golden Gate International Exposition in San Francisco; these maps were then published as Pageant of the Pacific (1939).

After returning to Mexico in the early 1940s, Covarrubias wrote and illustrated an account of the Tehuantepec region, “Mexico South” (1946). His book “The Eagle, the Jaguar, and the Serpent” (1954) surveyed the cultures of the North American Indians. He also worked as a theatre designer, easel painter, printmaker, and art-history teacher.



1937 July 1
Illustration by R.S. Grafstrom

1937 July 15
Between-Seasons Fashions
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1937 September 1
Advance Retail Trade Edition
Paris Openings 1, Autumn Shopping
Cover by Christian Bèrard

1937 September 1
Illustration by R.S. Grafstrom

1937 September 15
Paris Openings II
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1937 December 1
Christmas Gifts, North and South Fashions
Cover by Pierre Roy

1938 February 1
Americana Number
Cover by Victor Bobritsky

Vladimir Bobri (Bobritsky) (1898, Kharkov, Ukraine – 1986, Rosendale, New York) was an illustrator, author, composer, educator and guitar historian. Celebrated for his prolific and innovative graphic design work in New York since the mid-1920s, Bobritsky was also a founder of the New York Society of The Classic Guitar in 1936, and served as editor and art director of its magazine, Guitar Review for nearly 40 years.
Bobritsky studied at the rigorous Kharkov Imperial Art School. By 1915 he had begun designing sets for the Great Dramatic Theatre of Kharkov, introducing the methods of theatrical designer Gordon Craig. Swept up in the Russian Revolution, Bobritsky fought on various sides in the civil war before managing to escape in 1917.
He painted icons in the Greek islands, played the piano in a nickelodeon in Pera, painted signs in Istanbul, discovered an important Byzantine mural in an abandoned Turkish mosque, and earned his passage to America by designing sets and costumes for the Russian ballet in Istanbul.

In 1986 Bobritsky lost his life in a house fire that consumed the house he designed, built and lived in with his wife.



1938 March 1
Paris Openings, Spring Shopping
Cover by Christian Bèrard

1938 March 15
Paris Openings II
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1938 April 1
Paris Importations, Limited Incomes
Cover by Pierre Roy

1938 April 15
Country Clothes, Country House Decoration
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1938 April 15
Country Clothes, Brides
Cover by Rene Bouet-Willaumez

1938 June 15
Fashions for Summer
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1938 September 15
Paris Openings II
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1938 November 15
New Motor Cars, Mid-Season Fashions
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1938 December 1
Christmas Gifts
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1939 February 1
Cover by Witold Gordon


Witold Gordon (1885 – 1968). Polish-born painter, muralist and illustrator Witold Gordon studied at the École des Beaux Arts before moving to the United States.
The modernist painter was commissioned by designer Donald Deskey to create two murals for Radio City Music Hall in 1932, including “The History of Cosmetics” for the Ladies Lounge. He was later commissioned to create a 6,000 square foot mural for the Food Zone at the New York World's Fair in 1939, which is captured in postcards from the fair as well as commemorative film footage and photographs.
Gordon created stylish illustrations for The Travels of Marco Polo (New York: H. Liveright, ca. 1930). His skill as a graphic designer is apparent in his poster for the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid, New York, the first winter games held in the United States.
Regional architecture and typography were a perpetual source of inspiration. Conde Nast commissioned the artist to create a series of gouaches entitled “New York Storefronts you Never See,” which were published in Vanity Fair in July 1934. In the summers of 1939 and 1940, Gordon travelled around the Southeastern United States painting what he considered to be distinctively American homes and businesses; the series of 35 gouaches was presented at The Museum of Modern Art, New York in 1941, in an exhibition titled "American Scene." Subsequently, Gordon was commissioned by The New Yorker magazine to create a series of covers illustrating New York City’s idiosyncratic storefronts.
Gordon died on Long Island in 1968, at age 83.


1939 March 1
Paris Openings, Spring Shopping
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1939 March 15Paris Openings II
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1939 May 1
World's Fair
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1939 June 1
Beach Fashions, Beauty
Cover by Salvador Dali

1939 June 15
Fashions for Summer
Cover by Christian Bèrard

1939 July 16
Between-Seasons Fashions
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1939 September 15
Paris Openings II
Cover by Christian Berard

1939 November 15
Débutantes, New York Season
Cover by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1940 June 15th
Summer Begins, Fashions for the Next Three Months
Cover by Eduardo Garcia Benito

1940 October 15
Opening Night of Hattie Carnegie's Fashion Studio
Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson

1941 July 15
Autumn Fashion Forecast
Cover by Rene Bouet-Willaumez


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